At a time when menswear is rethinking how to blend identity with desire, Haider Ackermann marks a new beginning for Tom Ford with his Autumn/Winter 2025 debut. His first collection as creative director doesn’t shout — it whispers, with precision and elegance, reaching deep beneath the surface.
Far from excess and nostalgia, Ackermann designs a wardrobe for men who seek presence, not approval. The cuts are sculpted, the silhouettes fluid but never loose, and the fabrics — silk, leather, velvet, structured wool — speak of luxury through texture, never through ostentation.
Black takes center stage, accompanied by off-white, deep reds, and muted pastels that flash like light in a nighttime scene. The Tom Ford man moves with the quiet confidence of someone who needs no explanation. Each garment seems created for a suspended moment — that threshold between night and dawn where everything is still possible.
The tuxedo, reimagined, becomes a symbol of sensual power, and of conscious vulnerability. An unbuttoned shirt is not provocation, but a gesture of freedom. Everything in this collection speaks the language of a modern elegance that doesn’t fear silence — that seduces with a downward glance, that convinces by staying one step behind.
With this first act, Ackermann doesn’t reject the Ford DNA — he reshapes it. And within that transformation lies a promise: of a renewed masculinity that is intense, nuanced, and profoundly contemporary.
The Tom Ford FW25 Menswear collection is now available exclusively in our boutiques and at michelefranzesemoda.com.
